Anyways, thanks for any help and stay safe. Tags: None. If my basic HazMat training has taught me nothing else, it's that if you see a glowing green monkey running away from something, follow that monkey!
Comment Post Cancel. Then so my next question would be why get a set of strobes? Are they brighter or more effective than simply utilizing wig wags? Sorry, if these are dumb questions. They are far superior than the strobes. If you choose to go with strobes your headlights will drown them out if you have both on at same time.
In my opinion the headlights flashers are the most effective attention getting warning light you can have. Just remember to turn them of as well as your headlights after getting on scene. This goes for pov's and emergency vehichles.
I used to have wig-wags and switched to a strobe headlight system. If you just want to put strobes in your headlights, you can find some less expensive systems that have just a two outlet power supply.
All that current is switched with insanely-reliable relay contacts instead of wussy little bipolar transistors. Keep in mind that this was the mid-to-late 60's.
Tridon Electronic Flashers are still available. Although I don't recall the part number of the device I used to use, I'm thinking that the HD13 might be the correct part. But I don't have one at hand to check. Ya'll are making this way to complicated. Sign up to join this community.
The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Designing wig wag relay circuit Ask Question. Asked 3 years, 6 months ago.
Active 2 years, 2 months ago. Viewed 2k times. Preolt Preolt 19 3 3 bronze badges. I have had them for 3 months and no problems yet. Have fun. Vista, NY. There are already kits made that do what in the end you are trying to accomplish. Gall's has them. In effect, they flash the brake lights, and then the reverse lights, but they do both brakes at the same time, then both reverse at the same time.
If you do it this way, it will be cheaper than buying 2 wig-wag units, and less wires too. Biggest puzzle to me is why you wouldn't want to obtain a flasher unit designed for the intended application and install according to mfgr instructions I have installed and used both types from both Gall's and Sound Off, Inc.
You don't really want technical electrical advice from me, tho' -- sometimes I can figure out more than I really understand, and sometimes I just figure out wrong. Good luck! Wednesday May 28 , cobr Add a bit for safety, you may run up to 14v on a vehicle electrical system, and current alo increases!
When the switch is on, the can flashes the whites. The relay flashes the reds on when the whites are off. If you back-up, or brake, the whites or reds come on solid. When the switch is off, and you back-up, there is no supply through the contacts to the reds because of the diodes.
Likewise, when you brake there is no path through the diodes to the whites. The diodes in the normal feed to the reds and whites to stop the wig-wag powering other circuits on the same supply as the brakes and back-up lights if you touch the brake or select reverse when the wig-wag is on and other circuits are off. To do a similar thing side to side uses a few more diodes.
I'd use 10 amp rating for 55 watt lamps though. Regards Denis de This is true especially with the strobes. If you get the strobe setup from Galls - or other places - you can either get the lamps ready to install - OR - you can purchase already modified lamp housings. Now, if nothing else, if this would work for strobes - you could concievably do this with regular incadescent lamps.
Pick up a used lamp housing from a wrecking yard or at the scene of your next MVC and practice drilling, etc. I have been watching this thread for quite a while. Some years ago I wired up some wig-wags for an ambulance, but the same idea would work here. Used the fog lights - they could be used either in normal mode or wig-wag. Part of the trick was to use diodes on both feeds - that for normal and the leads for wig wag.
Same thing for this particular application that the thread discusses. However, instead of the relay - what I used was a flasher - it IS an alternating flasher, available at any auto store. The only "problem" is to make sure there is sufficient load on the normally closed side, or the flasher wont "heat up" enough to alternate.
The fog lights drew enough current to flash at a steady rate. In another application I installed - the "lollipop" lights in the rear window didnt draw enough, so the "wig wag" effect was "uneven", time-wise. I solved this problem by adding an additional lamp at the front of the vehicle on the NC side of flasher, and then the wigwag effect was "balanced" Just thought I would add my 3cents.
Thanks Tyler! You just helped me figure out what I've been doing wrong all these years! First off, let me start by saying WOW. You managed to get a lot of useless responses from people telling you to go buy the unit designed for this. If you wanted to do that you wouldn't have posted your question! Secondly, I am using a wig-wag unit currently as a back-flasher and it works great. I'll get into the wiring in a minute.
There was someone here who posted that they just took a regular wig- wag unit and plugged it in to the rear wiring with nothing special. Check your backup lights next time you press the brake - they go on. Check your brake lights next time you shift to reverse - they go on too Think about it. This is how it works on your headlights.
These headlight flashers work with either LED or Halogen headlights and can perform three different kinds of flash patterns. At LED Equipped, we use the latest technology and the highest quality materials to create all of our emergency vehicle lighting products.
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